Index
I offer knife blades, and other bits and pieces, separately for those who would like to build their own knives. These are the same high quality blades used in the knives from the various companies. They are sharpened and polished, ready to mount. Adding your own handle is a fairly simple project, and a good introduction to knife making. The result is uniquely your own, and something you can use with pride. Making a sheath is not that difficult either. The handcrafted look will enhance your historical outfit, or your regular outdoor gear.
I personally prefer carbon steel over stainless steel. In equal quality blades, I feel it is easier to sharpen and holds a better edge. (There is some difference of opinion on this.) There is no denying however, that the Scandinavian stainless steel works very well. They do a lot of salt water fishing and are rather fussy about their knives, so they've learned to make a stainless knife that works. In speaking with the folks at the various factories over there, they seemed to find my interest in carbon steel rather strange. Most of their upscale knives are done in their high quality stainless.
The metric measurements given are taken from the catalogs and are nominal. The English measurements are taken from sample pieces, and may vary somewhat depending on polish, etc.
These are the excellent laminated steel blades from Helle. They have an outer layer of tough steel for durability, and a hard inner core (HRC 58-59) for superior edges. Except for the #1-C carbon, Helle blades have the Helle logo etched on the blade.
I've added the following blades.
For fishermen, I've added two Helle fillet blades.
Because fillet blades should be thin, these are not laminated. Because
they will be used around water, they are stainless.
The #115 is the same blade used in the "Steinbit". It is just
over 6", thin (just .087" at the base) and flexible, $16.50.
The #120, as used in the "Hellefisk". It is about 5" and a
little stiffer in the Norwegian style (about .090" at the base), $15.00.
#HB-70 is the blade from the Helle Lapplander leuku. It's a big blade, 8 1/2" long, over 1 1/2" wide and .102" thick. It's done in polished Sandvik 12C27 stainless for $23.50.
These are new from Helle. They are traditional Norwegian Tollekniv blades. The Tollekniv was, and
is, the knife used for all things, but especially woodworking. The blades are a bit larger and stouter than is
usual, being 4 3/8" (11cm.) long and almost 7/8" (2.5cm) wide. It comes in laminated stainless or laminated
carbon steel. The stainless is .129" thick, and comes with a satin polish. The carbon is .160" thick, and
comes with the black of the heat treat left on the sides for a rustic look. It seems to have been made
directly from the hot rolled stock, and almost looks hand forged.
#1-s; the laminated stainless blade is $23.50.
#1-c; the laminated carbon steel blade is (Out of Stock)
The Brusletto 10 cm laminated carbon steel blades are about 4" long,
and 7/8" wide. The center layer is hardened to about 59 on the Rockwell scale.
There are two styles, one semi-polished, and one with the scale left
intact on the sides for a rustic look. The polished version is about .117" thick, and
the rustic version is about .133" thick. They have a bit more flair
and upsweep than the tolleknive style, with a strong curved clip. They would make excellent
hunting knives. The Nostalgi has no blade marking.
#21004; Brusletto 10 cm "Nostalgi" blade, $16.
#21000; Brusletto 10 cm semi-polished blade, $17.
They're back. Some of you may remember these from a year or so ago. At the time I bought all that were available, but some had already been sold to a distributer in Norway. He's decided to let some go, so I have them again.
They were discovered in the factory warehouse. They are very old stock, and are much thicker than any other Brusletto blades I’ve seen. They are a nominal 5 mm before polishing, while the usual stock is 3 or 4 mm before polishing. They are made of laminated carbon steel, 4 7/8" long, 1" wide, and are about .175" thick after grinding and polishing. The blades were blanked out and laid in the warehouse until sometime in the 90’s. At that time they were hardened and ground for possible sale to a customer in Norway. The blades are stamped rather than etched with "Brusletto Norway".
They have been newly cleaned and polished by the factory. This blade would make a
seriously stout wilderness or hunting knife. $27
#20700, The 7 cm. Stainless is a basic puukko style blade about 2 3/4" long, 9/16" wide, and .072" thick It's done in a satin polished stainless steel for $10 Out of Stock.
#20800, The 8 cm. Carbon is a basic puukko style blade about 3 1/4" long, 11/16" wide,
and .100" thick. It's done in a satin polished carbon steel for $13. Out of Stock
#20900, The 9 cm. Carbon is a basic puukko style blade about 3 5/8" long, 3/4" wide,
and .108" thick. It's done in a satin polished carbon steel for $14. Out of Stock
#22710, The Brusletto Mini is a miniature blade only two inches long (four inches
including the tang), about 3/8" wide and .075" thick. It would make a nice small
neck knife, or it could be set in a larger handle for wood carving.
Done in highly polished stainless (not laminated), the price is $17.
#20600, The Brusletto Veskeblad is another miniature blade. It's 2 1/2" long,
7/16" wide and only .039" thick. The tang is about 1 1/4" long and the blade is stainless. $6
#23400, The Brusletto Trollungenblad is just a bit larger. It's done in stainless with
the heat treat scale left on the sides for a rustic look. It's about 2" long, 5/8" wide and 080" thick. $10.
#23200, The Brusletto Trollblad is intended for all around use, especially woodworking.
It's about 3 1/4" long, 3/4" wide, and .107" thick. It's done in stainless steel, but the sides left black from the heat treat, so it has a rustic look. It has the Brusletto name stamped on the side.
The price is $20.
#24100, The Brusletto Kystkniv is another general purpose blade. The blade is polished stainless steel and is about 3 1/2" long, 7/8" wide, and .138" thick. $19.
#22900, The Brusletto Nansen is a bit larger. It's 3 3/4" long, 9/16" wide, and .095" thick. Done in a satin polished stainless steel (not laminated) the price is $22.
#20400, The Brusletto Kvassegg ("sharpedge") is a handy utility blade. It's just under
4" long (3 15/16") long, 7/16" wide, and .104" thick. Done in a nicely polished stainless steel (not
laminated) the price is $19.
#24500, The Brusletto Tiur is a bit larger. It's about 4 3/4" long, 15/16" wide, and only .077" thick. This would be an excellent slicer. Done in a nicely polished
stainless steel (not laminated) the price is $25. Out of Stock
#24800, The Gutta pa Tur is similar. It's about 4 3/4" long, 15/16" wide, and only .077" thick. This would also be an excellent slicer. Done in a nicely polished
stainless steel (not laminated) the price is $23.
#21820, The Brusletto Falken is a dedicated skinning blade with a deeply hollow
ground edge and a pronounced upswept point. It's about 3 1/2"long,
1 1/8" wide, and .137" thick. Done in highly polished stainless steel (not
laminated) the price is $23. (The aluminum factory hilt casting is available below for $7.)
#21510, The Brusletto Hallingen is a stout hunting blade. It's about 4 7/8" long, 1" wide,
and .150" thick. Done in a nicely polished stainless steel (not laminated) the price is $22.
Out of Stock
#21001, The Brusletto Hunter is designed for butchering large game. It's about 5 1/8", long, 1" wide, and only .096" thick. The blade tapers down from the back to about .068" near the edge, where there is a secondary bevel. This is a blade for slicing. Done in a polished stainless steel (not laminated) the price is $23. (The aluminum factory hilt casting is available below for $7.)
#21130, The Brusletto Granbit is a stout all-purpose blade. It's about 4 1/4" long, 13/16" wide, and .138" thick. The end of the tang is threaded for the #41120; pommel nut listed below, and the
#41100 pommel end ferrule, and the #41110 blade end ferrule would complete the set. Done in a mirror
polished stainless steel (not laminated) the price is $23.
Strömeng is in the far north of Norway, and the blades are in the Saami style. They are thiner and wider than the woodworking blades of the south, and are more suited to the butchering of game. They are hardened to Rockwell 59. The blades have stout tangs and a utilitarian satin finish. The 3 1/2" and 5" are stainless, the 7", 8" and 9" are carbon. Strömeng blades are produced by Brusletto. They are not stamped or etched with a maker's mark.
#20930; 3 1/2" Sameblad, about 3 3/8" long, 1 1/8" wide, and
about .078" thick, $18
#21310; 5" Sameblad, about 5 1/8" long, 1 1/8" wide, and .077" thick, $19 Out of Stock
21810; 7" Sameblad, about 7 1/8" long, 1 7/16" wide, and .110" thick, $21
22010; 8" Sameblad, about 8" long, 1 5/8" wide, and .110" thick, $24
22310, 9" Sameblad, about 9 1/8" long, 1 5/8" wide, and .110" thick $26
Karesuando is well into the Sami (Lapplander) portion of Sweden, and these blades resemble the Finnish style more than the usual Swedish style. Both carbon steel and stainless steel blades are hardened to 57 HRC. They do not have any markings.
Stainless steel blades:
High carbon laminated steel blades; These are the famous laminated Mora blades. There are three layers, the centers are hardened to 60 - 61 on the Rockwell scale, and the sides are soft. They will hold an edge like a straight razor, but are not brittle. In fact they bend fairly easily and should not be chosen for uses where this will be a problem. The blades vary a bit due to the polishing process, but are about .106" thick. The measurements given are taken from a sample blade and may vary a little. All are deeply stamped with the Frosts logo.
The high carbon Roselli blades are forged from Krupp W75 with a carbon content of .7 - .8%, and hardened to HRC 59 - 62. They are unique among the blades I carry in that they are forged rather than ground to shape. The blades are forged to shape in dies, then finished by hand. The upper sides of the blades still have the forge scale, and the bevels are ground cleanly to the edge with little or no secondary bevel. They are very sharp and ready to work. There are no blade markings.
Roselli knives are made with tangs that do not go all the way through the handles. For those that prefer through tangs I've arranged to have mild steel rods welded to the end of the tangs. The rods are about 3/16" (.196"). If you prefer short tangs, just cut off the excess.
#RB151; The Roselli 5" Leuku is a stout wilderness blade. It's about 5 1/2" long,
1 5/16" wide, and .200" thick. It's not too unwealdy for general chores and heavy enought
for light chopping. For some reason it comes a light ferrule, but I don't think I'd use it. $89.
#RB150; The Roselli Leuku is a no nonsense chopping tool. It's about 7 3/4" long,
1 3/8" wide, and .200" thick. For some reason it comes a light ferrule, but I don't think I'd use it. $94.
New from Roselli is the UHC (Ultra High Carbon) line. This is a proprietary steel with a carbon content of 1.5 - 2.0%. It is hardened to HRC of 64 - 66 and is said to hold an edge twice as long as the already excellent regular line.
#RB220; The Roselli UHC Grandfather is a blade for those folks who plan in doing a LOT of skinning.
It's about 2 7/8" long, 1 3/16" wide and .121" thick. $85.
The Brusletto #2 Kit, is the easiest kit I have. It makes
a knife similar to the Falken. The blade is about 3 1/4" long, and deeply
hollow ground. There is an aluminum ferrule with a guard, and the handle
will be about 4 1/4". The handle is fully shaped, and the knife requires
only assembly, sanding and finishing. The sheath is cut out and ready to
stitch up. The kit includes the blade, ferrule, handle, sheath, sheath
liner, needle and thread. The only thing you have to supply is epoxy and
finish for the handle. There are basic instructions in Norwegian and English.
The price of the Brusletto #2 kit is $40.
The Brusletto #1 Kit is a bit more traditional. The 3 1/2"
stainless blade has the traditional Scandinavian grind. The curly birch
block is drilled for the blade and pre-shaped for the supplied ferrule,
but is not shaped. This gives you a chance to actually decide what kind of
handle you would like. The blade does not go through the handle, but
is set with epoxy in a blind hole. This method gives you a lot of latitude
in shaping the handle. The block supplied will make a handle up to 4 3/4"
long, or smaller if you wish. The sheath is not cut out, but a generous
piece of leather is supplied. Needle and thread are included, but you have
to provide your own epoxy. Basic instructions in Norwegian and English are
included.
The price of the Brusletto #1 Kit is $ (Out of Stock).
The Helle kit makes a knife similar to the Harding,
but with a one piece handle. It uses
the #99 blade shown above. The blade is the famous Norwegian laminated
stainless steel and is 4" long. The knife will make up to be about 8 1/2" or
8 3/4" overall. You will have to drill and shape the block to form the
handle. The kit includes the blade, a block of curly birch, the hilt
plate, the pommel nut that drives on the end of the tang, and a rivet for
the sheath. The sheath is cut out and ready to stitch up. There is a keeper
strap with a hole that engages the pommel nut. The thread is included. but
I do not see needles. Brief instructions are included, but they are in
Norwegian.
The price of the Helle Kit is $40.
There are no instructions included. If you need them, you can refer to my on-line pages mounting a blade, and making a sheath.
Please let me know which blade material and leather color you would like.
If you don't specify otherwise, you'll get a carbon steel blade and natural
color leather. You can also substitute the oak tanned tooling leather shown below if you wish.
The price of the 9 cm. kit (#3526) is $29.
The price of the 10 cm. kit (#3527) is $37.
I've added just a few basic fittings. For the most part I think you are better off making your own from scratch, or simply not using them, as on many of the Helle knives. If used at all, they should fit exactly. There are so many styles of blades and handles that it would be difficult to carry pre-made guards for every combination. It's best to start with a guard having the slot just a bit small for the blade, then file it to a precise fit. Another option is poured pewter (see below).
Brass guard plates from Karesuando; these are brass stampings, and may require
some flattening and polishing. They are about .122" thick. If you decide to use one these,
remember to file the guard to fit the tang, not the tang to fit the guard!
Due to polishing, some blades have tangs that are slightly narrower where the guard sits than
futher down. Here you will have file the tang slightly in order to fit the guard. If this is required
be sure to draw the file down the length of the tang, not across it. File the tang as little as
possible.
#3545; an oval plate 1.16" high and .795 wide. The slot is for the 2.5mm thick
blade (.600" high and .095" wide). $2.00 Out of stock
#3546; an oval plate 1.16" high and .795 wide. The slot is for the 3.2mm thick
blade (.59" high and .118" wide). $2.00
#3575-L; a plate with some left for a finger guard (.709" wide 1.37" high.
The slot is .666" high and .121" wide). $3.00 Out of stock
#3575-S; as above with a smaller slot about .098" wide and .550" high. $3.00 Out of stock
Nickel silver fittings from Brusletto; these are the same as used on the
Busletto Granbit and Troll.
From the Granbit;
#41120; pommel nut, .927" overall, sits about third of an inch above the
pommel for a keeper strap, and is sized for the pommel end ferrule. The hole
is .171" and threaded for standard 5 mm metric. Alternatively. you can press-fit
it on to the tang. $6. Out of Stock
#41100; pommel end ferrule, about .973" tall, .625" wide, and .529 deep. The
hole is .300". $6. Out of Stock
#41110; blade end ferrule, about .973" tall, .625" wide, and .529 deep. The
slot is .627" high and .155" wide. $6
From the Troll;
#48220; Pommel nut, .916" overall, sits about .3" above the pommel for a
keeper strap, and is sized for the pommel end ferrule. The hole is .137",
and is threaded for standard 4 mm metric. Alternatively. you can press-fit
it on to the tang. $6 (out of stock).
#43201; pommel end ferrule, about .888" tall, .583" wide, and .26" deep.
The hole is about .3". $6.
#43200; blade end ferrule, about .888" tall, .583" wide, and .26" deep.
The slot is about .445" by .116". $6.
Cast aluminum fitting from the Brusletto Hunter; a cast hilt unit with a
bit if a finger guard, it's about 1 1/8" from top to bottom, 5/8" wide and 1" deep.
The blade slot is about .800" long and .106" wide. $7
Brass fittings from Frosts, for those who prefer the more traditional look
of brass fittings, here are some from Frosts. They are the same as used on Frosts knives
#277 and #311, and would go well with these blades sold above.
#99FRAM; Stainless steel guard plate from Helle; The same as used with the #99 blade
above on the Helle Harding. It's about 1.20" tall, .65" wide and .11" thick.
The slot is .666" long and .12" wide. $2.
End nuts from Helle;
#h1; (left) a flush fit pommel nut, OD's are .511" and .322", height is .401",
ID is .148". $(out of stock).
#h2; (right) as used on the Nying to provide for a keeper strap. OD's are
.276" and .373", height .401", ID is .141". $2.
#h3; (not shown) a larger flush mounted nut as used on the Helle Lappland.
The OD's are .627" and .412". The inside diameter of the hole is .192", which is too large for
many of the blades. It can be made to work, but the tang isn't likely to completely fill the hole. $3.
#905; Slices of reindeer antler for spacers. I don't think these look
much different than slices of antler from any other deer, but if you want
to be authentic, you might as well do it right. They vary somewhat, but are
about 1/2" thick. $2.75 each.
Leather pieces for sheaths; these are the same as supplied with
the Karesuando kits. They are cowhide, about 9 1/2" long, 4 3/4" wide, and
1/16" thick. Natural color is $8.00, dark brown is $9.00.
I've added some oak-bark tanned tooling leather. Oak bark tanning is a
traditional, all vegetable process. The leather is soft and pliable
when wet, which makes it very easy to work. It dries stiff and hard.
After it dries to shape, you should to seal it to keep out moisture.
The wax process described on the sheath making page
works well. You can use regular waterproofing if you want it to be
less stiff. These pieces are less expensive only because I don't have to
import them.
There are two weights:
#OAK6-7; "6-7oz", which is about .112" thick, 5" wide and 9 1/2" long, for sheaths without liners, $7.
#OAK4-5; "4-5oz", which is about .068" thick, 5" wide and 9" long, for sheaths with liners, or smaller sheaths, $6.
If you are going to use a lot of leather, you can get it more cheaply at M. Steffan's Sons, Inc. This is probably the is the oldest leather goods store in the nation under the same name and family. Now operated by the fifth generation, it's a great source for leather and leather working supplies. This is where I get the leather I sell for knife sheaths. If you are going to make more than a few sheaths, you would be better off getting large pieces from Linda. Then you can fit the patterns to the leather and reduce waste. A piece of leather that will make four of the rectangular pieces shown above will usually make five or six sheaths.
Plastic inserts for sheaths; I’ve had a number of requests for the plastic inserts
that many of the Scandinavian factories use in their sheaths. If I use an insert myself, I prefer to
carve it out of wood. That way I get just what I want, and it seems more in keeping with the
traditional nature of the Scandinavian design. However for those folks who prefer a ready made
insert, I’ve added the following styles. They are nicely made in two parts, with one half taking the
full thickness of the blade so the edge of the knife is not on the seam. The mouth is
slightly funneled for easy entry, and the outside of the insert is nicely rounded. There are four styles:
#3544; a straight insert for blades up to 3/4" wide (19 mm) and 4 1/16" (107 mm) long, $2. Out of Stock
#3555; a straight insert for blades up to 1 1/8" wide (31 mm) and 5 3/4" (150 mm) long, $2. Out of Stock
#3556; a curved insert for blades up to 3/4" (22 mm) wide and 4 3/8" (110 mm) long, $2. (Current stock is black rather than the white shown.)
#3557; a curved insert for blades up to 5/8" (18.5 mm) wide and 3 5/8" (95 mm) long, $2
These are the inserts used by Brusletto for the Troll and
Granbit. They are strongly funneled at the entrance to guide the blade of the knife and are symetrical so the knife can
be inserted either way. This is ideal for making sheaths that are left and right handed.
#80001; a straight insert for blades up to 15/16" (24 mm) wide and 3 1/4" (80 mm) long, $2.
#51110; a straight insert for blades up to 15/16" (24 mm) wide and 4 1/4" (110 mm) long, $2
They will take slightly longer blades if the point is near the center line, and if course they can be shortened for
shorter blades.
Lead Free Pewter
Poured pewter was a common early method of bonding the blade to the handle. A lead-free alloy is preferable where the knife may be used in preparing or eating food. This is a bright, clean casting alloy of tin, antimony and copper (Sn 92%, Sb 7.75%, Cu 1/4%) in convenient bell shaped ingots of about 3/4 pound. These should give ample metal for several knives. The price per ingot is (out of stock).
The birch has been so popular I've added some other woods.
Northern Red Oak blocks, $2
Maple blocks, with a clear grain for easy working, $2.
A neighbor found some old wagonwheel spokes in his barn. They appear to be White Oak. They have never been fitted to a wheel, and are at least 70 (100?) years old. As you would expect, they are well seasoned and have a particularly fine, straight grain that is difficult to obtain today. Sold in 5" lengths, they are ample in diameter for the most robust knife or sword grip. If you are making a large sword, let me know and I'll send a piece from the larger end. If you need a piece longer than 5", I can do that as well. While they last, $5.
Shipping and handling is $6 per order (not per item) anywhere in the US. Standard shipping is by Priority Post, insured if warranted by the value of the order. This doesn't actually cover the cost in most cases, but it's easy to calculate, and is my way of saying "thank you". Shipping is available for most other parts of the world, but usually costs more. Email for a quote. Note; shipping to Canada can be very slow.
New York State residents should add sales tax.
Most folks use a credit card and the encrypted secure order form. If you prefer, you can FAX your order to 716-731-3715. I'll need the type of card (Discover, Visa, or Master Charge), card number and expiration date. If course I'll also need to know what you are buying, and where to send it. Please include your e-mail address.
If you don't have a FAX, you can call that same number, and if your timing is good just speak to me. No collect calls.
If instant gratification is unavailable, you can always send a Postal Money Order or check to:
Ragweed Forge
PO Box 326
Sanborn, NY 14132
The Postal Snail may be slow, but he's faithful and discreet. Checks may be held for clearance, so if you're in a hurry, use a money order.
Everything on the page should be on hand and ready to ship. However some items may be short supply, so if you are ordering by mail, you might want to e-mail first so that I can hold your item (ragnar@ragweedforge.com).
