Knife blades from Ragnar

Index

I offer knife blades, and other bits and pieces, separately for those who would like to build their own knives. These are the same high quality blades used in the knives from the various companies. They are sharpened and polished, ready to mount. Adding your own handle is a fairly simple project, and a good introduction to knife making. The result is uniquely your own, and something you can use with pride. Making a sheath is not that difficult either. The handcrafted look will enhance your historical outfit, or your regular outdoor gear.

I personally prefer carbon steel over stainless steel. In equal quality blades, I feel it is easier to sharpen and holds a better edge. (There is some difference of opinion on this.) There is no denying however, that the Scandinavian stainless steel works very well. They do a lot of salt water fishing and are rather fussy about their knives, so they've learned to make a stainless knife that works. In speaking with the folks at the various factories over there, they seemed to find my interest in carbon steel rather strange. Most of their upscale knives are done in their high quality stainless.

The metric measurements given are taken from the catalogs and are nominal. The English measurements are taken from sample pieces, and may vary somewhat depending on polish, etc.

Click on the images for a larger view.


Norwegian Blades from Helle

These are the excellent laminated steel blades from Helle. They have an outer layer of tough steel for durability, and a hard inner core (HRC 58-59) for superior edges. Except for the #1-C carbon, Helle blades have the Helle logo etched on the blade.

The thickness may vary due to polishing.

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I've since added the following blades.

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#HB-180; laminated stainless steel with mirror polish, as used on the Wind, about 3 1/4" with a trailing point for skinning. (1.18" wide, .106" thick), $26.00

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#HB-88; laminated stainless steel with satin polish, as used on the both the Symfoni and the Harmoni. It's about 3 1/2" long with a slight drop point. The width is just under one inch, and it's about .106" thick. $24.00
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#HB-36; laminated stainless steel with satin polish, as used on the Helle GT. The blade is about 4 7/8" long, 1 1/8" wide" and 126" thick. The wide blade would be useful in skinning, butchering, or for general camp chores. $31.00


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#HB-42; non laminated stainless steel with mirror polish, as used on the Jegermester, 5 1/4" (1.13"w, .125"t), $26.00
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#HB-15; Laminated stainless steel with a satin polish, as used on the Odel. It's about 3 1/2" long, 7/8" wide at the base, and .105" thick. $22.00

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#HB-80; 12C27 non-laminated stainless steel with a satin polish, as used on the Folkniven. It's about 3 1/2" long, 15/16" wide at the base, and .105" thick. $15.00

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These are traditional Norwegian Tollekniv blades. The Tollekniv was, and is, the knife used for all things, but especially woodworking. The blades are a bit larger and stouter than is usual, being 4 3/8" (11cm.) long and 7/8" (2.5cm) wide. It comes in laminated stainless or laminated carbon steel. The stainless is .125" thick, and comes with a satin polish. The carbon is .148" thick, and comes with the black of the heat treat left on the sides for a rustic look. It seems to have been made directly from the hot rolled stock, and almost looks forged. The carbon blade is used on the current version of the Viking.
#HB-1-s; the laminated stainless blade is $25.00
#HB-96; the laminated carbon steel blade is $23.00. Out of Stock


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For fishermen, I've added some Helle fillet blades. Because fillet blades should be thin, these are not laminated. Because they will be used around water, they are stainless.
The #HB-115 is the same blade used in the "Steinbit". It is just over 6", thin (just .087" at the base) and flexible, $19.00
The #HB-120, as used in the "Hellefisk". It is about 5" and a little stiffer in the Norwegian style (about .090" at the base), $20


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#HB-70 is the blade from the Helle Lapplander leuku. It's a big blade, 8 1/2" long, over 1 1/2" wide and .102" thick. It's done in polished Sandvik 12C27 stainless for $35.00


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#HB-300 is the blade from the Helle Temagami. The sharpened portion is about 4" long, 1 1/16" wide and .121" thick. Including the tang, it's just 9" overall, done in satin polished laminated stainless. This would make a seriously stout wilderness or utility knife. $49.00

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#HB-301; The same blade is now available in laminated carbon steel. $49.00


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#HB-0/4 is the blade from the Helle Speiderkniven, or Scout Knife. It's done in 12C27 stainless, not laminated. The blade is about 3 1/2" long, 5/8" wide, and .098" thick at the base. It would make neat neck knife. $15.00


Swedish Knife Blades from Karesuando

Karesuando is well into the Sami (Lapplander) portion of Sweden, and these blades resemble the Finnish style more than the usual Swedish style. Both carbon steel and stainless steel blades are hardened to 57 HRC. They do not have any markings. These blades are very nicely ground and have stouter than average tangs for hard usage. The tangs are quite long, at about 4 1/4", but it's easy to shorten them if necessary.

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Stainless steel blades:

Carbon steel blades (may have stains or spotting)

I've added two more stainless Karesuando blades. These are wider and stouter than the others. The tangs are shorter however, at about 2 3/8".

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enlarged JPEG image. #3560; about 3 1/4" long, 15/16" wide, and .130" thick $21

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enlarged JPEG image. #3561; about 3 7/8" long, 15/16" wide, and .130" thick. $22


Swedish Knife Blades from Mora of Sweden

High carbon laminated steel blades; These are the famous laminated Mora blades. There are three layers, the centers are hardened to 60 - 61 on the Rockwell scale, and the sides are soft. They will hold an edge like a straight razor, but are not brittle. In fact they bend fairly easily and should not be chosen for uses where this will be a problem. The blades vary a bit due to the polishing process, but are about .106" thick. The measurements given are taken from a sample blade and may vary a little. Mora of Sweden was formed from the former Frosts and Eriksson companies. Most blades are marked with the new Mora logo, but some have the old Frosts stamping.

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High carbon non-laminated blades; non laminated blades do not have soft sides, so they can be made thinner and still retain stiffness. Thinner blades slice better. These all have the classic Mora shape with a slight clip, and are hardened to 58 - 59 on the Rockwell scale. The spine of the blades is left rough from the stamping process. You may want to smooth it for appearance, or square up the corners for performance on a fire rod.


Stainless steel (12C27) blades hardened to ~58 on the Rockwell scale.

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#KB-LL-95; For those who prefer the strength of a full width tang, here's a stout one with a Scandinavian grind. The sharpened portion of the blade about 3 1/4" long and 7/8" wide. The length overall is about 8", and it's about 1/8" thick. At least one of these has gone to an airman who simply wrapped the handle with para-cord for a flat, but very stout knife. $50 (Ouch! The suggested retail is actually $69.99.)

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#KB-2000; I've gotten requests for the Mora 2000 survival knife blade, so here it is. The stainless blade is about 4 5/8" long, just under an inch wide, and .098" thick.
$19

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#KB-1-S; this is basic #1 size in stainless. The blade is about 3 7/8" long, 7/16" (.7") wide and .079" thick. The tang is about 3 1/8" long. These would make up into nice personal knives, or even steak knives. $11.



Finnish Blades from Laurin Metalli OY

Lauri blades are made in Kauhava Finland. Lauri does not make finished knives, but their blades are are used by Lapin Puukko, Wood Jewel, and Ahti, among others. They all have full Scandi grinds. I especially like the wide, gradually tapering tangs. This makes for a very stout knife. The carbon steel blades have the coloration of the heat treatment left on the upper sides of the blade, are not highly polished on the bevels. They are made to be used. I'm quite impressed with the working qualities, and expect to be adding more models as well as fittings.

Progressive Tempered Lauri blades

The progressive tempered blades are some of the best available anywhere. They are heat treated so the body of the blade is a tough RC53, and the edge is a super hard RC63. The temper line is clearly visible. The heat treatment, combined with the generous width of the tangs, results in a blade that is VERY tough but holds a superior edge. The effect is similar to lamination, but avoids the extra thickness of the blade. Thinner blades slice better.
larger image #Lauri-PT-62; (62x17x3.25mm) This neat little classic puukko blade is only 2 3/8" long, 5/8" wide, and ,130" thick. The generous tang is 4 3/8" long. $18.00.

May be pared with the 13*18*2-SHAPED bolster shown below.
larger image #Lauri-PT-77; (77x20x3.25mm) This is just a bit larger at 3", 3/4" wide, and ,130" thick. The generous tang is about 4 7/8" long. $19.00.

May be pared with the 16*24*3-SHAPED, 18*28*3-SHAPED, 19*30*3-SHAPED bolster, or 15*2-SHAPED ferrule shown below.
larger image #Lauri-PT-95; (95x19x3.25mm) This is probably a good size for an all-around everyday knife. The blade is about 3 3/4", 3/4" wide, and ,130" thick. The tang is about 4 5/8" long. $19.75.

May be pared with the 13*18*16*24*3-SHAPED, 18*28*3-SHAPED, 19*30*3-SHAPED bolster, OR 15*2-SHAPED ferrule shown below.
larger image #Lauri-PT-90; (90x27x3.25mm) This is a stouter blade for skinning or heavy duty tasks. The blade is about 3 1/2" long, 1 1/16" wide, and ,130" thick. The tang is about 5 1/8" long. $29.00.

May be pared with the 21*32*3-SHAPED bolster shown below.

High Carbon Lauri blades

High carbon Lauri blades are tempered to about 59 on the Rockwell scale for exceptional edge holding.
larger image #Lauri-carving-60; (60x14x2mm), a very small blade only 2 1/4" long, 1/2" wide and .086" thick. It would be good as a small neck knife, or the smaller knife in a double puukko set. $6.50

May be pared with the 13*18*2-SHAPED bolster shown below.
larger image #Lauri-carving-80; (80x23/16x3.25mm), I think the taper of this blade is particularly attractive. When used with a light weight handle it also puts a greater percentage of the mass near the center of gravity. This makes for a knife that balances well and feels lively in the hand. The blade is about 3 1/4" long, 7/8" wide at the base, and.130" thick. The tang is about 4 7/8" long. $10.75. Out of Stock

May be pared with the 19*30*3-SHAPED bolster shown below.
larger image #Lauri-carving-84; (84x17/15x3.25mm), also has a slight taper. Again I think it makes the blade a bit more graceful. The blade is about 3 5/16" long, 5/8" wide at the base, and.130" thick. The tang is about 4 3/8" long. $9.00 Out of Stock.

May be pared with the 15*22*3-SHAPED, 16*24*3-SHAPED bolster, or 15*23*15-SHAPED ferrule. If you would like a finger guard choose 19*30*3-SHAPED and trim the top and sides, leaving the extra on the bottom to form the guard.
larger image #Lauri-carving-95-with-ricasso; (95x19x3.25mm), a mid-sized all-around puukko blade. The blade is about 3 3/4" long, 3/4" wide, and.130" thick. The tang is about 4 5/8" long. $9.00.

May be pared with 18*28*3-STRAIGHT bolster, 19*30*3-STRAIGHT bolster, or 15*23*15-STRAIGHT ferrule.
larger image #Lauri-carving-105; (105x20x3.25mm), a classic puukko blade in a useful size. The blade is about 4 1/4" long, 3/4" wide and .130" thick. The tang is about 4 3/4". $9.25

May be pared with 18*28*3-SHAPED bolster, 19*30*3-SHAPED bolster, or 15*23*15-SHAPED ferrule.
larger image #Lauri-carving-105 with ricasso; (105x20x3.25mm), the ricasso it the squared portion at the base of the blade. The ricasso makes it a bit easier to get a neat fit with the guard. They are fussier to grind, so they often cost a bit more. This one is about 4 1/4" long, 3/4" wide and .130" thick. The tang is about 4 3/4". $9.75

May be pared with 18*28*3-STRAIGHT bolster, 19*30*3-STRAIGHT bolster, or 15*23*15-STRAIGHT ferrule.
larger image #Lauri-carving-125 with ricasso; (125x20x3.25mm), the ricasso it the squared portion at the base of the blade. The ricasso makes it a bit easier to get a neat fit with the guard. They are fussier to grind, so they often cost a bit more. This one is about 5" long, 3/4" wide and .130" thick. The tang is about 4 3/4". $10.75

May be pared with 18*28*3-STRAIGHT bolster, 19*30*3-STRAIGHT bolster, or 15*23*15-STRAIGHT ferrule.
larger image #Lauri-little-leuku-72; (72x27x3.25mm), a short and stout skinning or working blade. The satin polished carbon steel blade is about 2 7/8" long, 1 1/16" wide, and .122" thick. The tang is about 5" long. $15.50

May be pared with 21*32*3-SHAPED bolster.
larger image #Lauri-little-leuku-120; (120x32x3.25mm), a small leuku, or large pukko for those who like a larger blade. It's about 4 3/4" long, 1" wide and .130" thick. The tang is about 5" long. $17.50

May be pared with 21*32*3-SHAPED bolster.
larger image #Lauri-Leuku-210; (210x39x3.25mm), The Leuku is the Scandinavian camp knife used for chopping and butchering. The blade is about 8 1/4" long, 1 1/2" wide, and .130" thick. The tang is about 5". $29.50.

May be pared with 24*44*3-STRAIGHT bolster shown below.

Stainless Steel Lauri blades

larger image #Lauri-carving-80-with-ricasso-stainless; (80/23/16x3.25mm), a general purpose blade with a graceful shape. The blade is about 3 1/4" long, 7/8" wide at the base, and.130" thick. The tang is about 4 7/8" long. $14.75

May be pared with the 19*30*3-STRIAGHT bolster shown below.
larger image #Lauri-carving-105-stainless; (105x20x3.25mm), a classic puukko blade in stainless. The blade is about 4 1/4" long, 13/16" wide and .130" thick. The tang is about 4 3/4". The blade is about 3 1/4" long, 7/8" wide at the base, and.130" thick. The tang is about 4 7/8" long. $13.75

May be pared with 18*28*3-SHAPED bolster, 19*30*3-SHAPED bolster, or 15*23*15-SHAPED

larger image #Lauri-fillet-160; (160x20x1.3mm), a fillet blade in the more flexible Finnish tradition. The blade is about 6 1/4" long, 3/4" wide at the base, and only .041" thick. The tang is about 4 5/8". $13.75 Out of Stock.

May be pared with 16*24*3-FILLET bolster

Finnish Blades from Roselli

High Carbon Roselli Blades

The high carbon Roselli blades are forged from Krupp W75 with a carbon content of .7 - .8%, and hardened to HRC 59 - 62. They are unique among the blades I carry in that they are forged rather than ground to shape. The blades are forged to shape in dies, then finished by hand. The upper sides of the blades still have the forge scale, and the bevels are ground cleanly to the edge with little or no secondary bevel. They are very sharp and ready to work. There are no blade markings.


larger image #R770B; The Roselli Garlic Knife blade is a tiny blade suited to scrimshaw, chip carving, engraved decoration on wooden spoon handles, and other fine work. It's just under an inch long, and .085" thick. The tang is about 1 1/8" long. $24
larger image #R130B; The Roselli Grandmother is a detail carving or paring knife. It's about 2 3/16" long, 3/4" wide, and .130" thick. $39
larger image #R110B; The Roselli Carpenter blade makes a great puukko for everyday carry. The blade is about 3 1/4" long, 3/4" wide, and .141" thick. The tang is about 2 3/8" long. $45
larger image #R160B; The Roselli Opening Knife blade is the European version of the gut hook. Because it cuts from the flesh side of the hide, it doesn't get clogged with fur. It's also handy for boning the legs, etc. The blade is about 3 1/2" long, 3/4" wide, and .117" thick. The tang is about 2 3/8" long. $45
larger image #R100B; The Roselli Hunter is a hunting and skinning blade. The blade is just under 4" long, 1 1/4" wide, and .137" thick. The tang is about 2 3/4" long. $49
larger image #R120B; The Roselli Grandfather is a short, wide, skinning blade or work knife. It's about 2 7/8" long, 1 1/4" wide, and .134" thick. $46
larger image #R151B; The Roselli 5" Leuku is a stout wilderness blade. It's about 5 1/2" long, 1 5/16" wide, and .200" thick. It's not too unwealdy for general chores and heavy enought for light chopping. It has a steel rod welded to the tang for those who like full length tangs. If you prefer the usual Roselli short tang just cut it off. $89
larger image #R150B; The Roselli Leuku is a no nonsense chopping tool. It's about 7 3/4" long, 1 3/8" wide, and .200" thick. This one has a steel rod welded to the tang for those who like full length tangs. If you prefer the usual Roselli short tang just cut it off. $94

UHC (Ultra High Carbon) Roselli Blades

Ultra High Carbon Roselli blades have a carbon content of 1.5 - 2.0%. They are hardened to HRC 64 - 66. As good as the high carbon blades are, these are said to hold an edge about twice as long. It is not practical to sharpen them on a stone, and they require a diamond plate or ceramic.


larger image #R231B; The Roselli Bear Claw in UHC would make a serious wood carving or detail knife. The blade is about 2 3/8" long, 3/4" wide, and .125" thick. The tang is about 2 1/4" long. $55
larger image #R210B; The Roselli Carpenter blade in UHC would be an excellent knife for Scandiavian carving, where longer blades are used. The blade is about 3 1/4" long, 3/4" wide, and .120" thick. The tang is about 2 3/8" long. $75
larger image #R200B; The Roselli Hunter in UHC is a hunting and skinning blade for those who want the ultimate in edge holding. The blade is just ovrer 4" long, 1 1/4" wide, and .122" thick. The tang is about 2 3/4" long. $85
larger image #R200LB; The Roselli Special Length Hunter in UHC is the version favored in Russia when hunting big game such as moose. The blade is just ovrer 5 5/8" long, 1 1/4" wide, and about .121" thick. The tang is about 2 3/4" long. $99
larger image #R220B; The Roselli UHC Grandfather is a blade for those folks who plan in doing a LOT of skinning. It's about 2 7/8" long, 1 3/16" wide and .121" thick. $82
larger image #R755B; The Roselli UHC Cook's knife blade is of course intended to be used in the kitchen. The blade is about 8 1/8" long, or 14 1/8" long including the tang. At the base it's 2 3/8" wide and only .061" thick. This is a slicer, not a chopper. $129
larger image #R756B; The Roselli UHC Geraral Cooking knife blade is of course also intended to be used in the kitchen. The sharpened portion of the blade is about 8" long, 1 7/8" wide at the base, and only .054" thick. Again, this is a slicer, not a chopper. The overall length is about 13 1/8". $129
For those who like a true full tang blade in carbon steel, I've added these from Condor. CONDOR TOOL & KNIFE traces its history back to 1787, the year GERB WEYESBERG COMPANY was founded in Solingen, Germany. In 1964, the company formed IMACASA with a new plant in Santa Ana, El Salvador, and filled it with state of the art German equipment and expertise. If you are interested you can read more of the history here.

The blades are stout working patterns with a plain satin finish. They are ground from German 1075 carbon steel, hardened and tempered to a hardness of 56-58 on the Rockwell Scale.. Condor blades are stamped "CONDOR" on one side, and "EL SALVADOR" on the other.


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#60030; Condor Bushlore blade: makes up into a VERY stout bushlore knife. The blade is a bit over 4" long, 1 1/4" wide, and .098" thick. Length over all is about 9 1/4". $19



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#60031; Condor Kephart blade: Originally designed by the well known outdoorsman Horace Kephart, this blade is optimised for the hunter. It's done with a flat grind from the spine of the blade for efficient butchering. The blade thickness has a distal taper for improved balance and slicing. It's about 4.1/2" long, 1" wide and .106" thick. Length overall is 9". $19



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#60032; Condor Woodlaw blade is a neatly made clip point about 4" long, 1" wide and .106" thick. Overall length is 8 1/2". $19


Fittings

Fittings are not a requirement. Some very elegant knives are made from only a blade and a piece of wood. But most people feel that a bolster or guard dresses up a knife. It also lets you make an oversized hole in the handle, and hide it with a nicely fitted bolster. This is sometimes quicker and easier than doing a precise fit of the wood to the base of the blade.

If you use a bolster or guard it should fit as closely as possible to the blade. Often I think itís better to make your own, but these can save you some time. When selecting a fitting, look for one with an opening that is a bit smaller than the blade at the point where it will sit. You can file the opening larger for an exact fit, but you canít file it smaller. Likewise the outer dimensions need to be large enough for the handle you are planning. Again, you can file the outside smaller, or to a more graceful shape, but itís harder to add metal to a guard thatís too narrow.

Often the tang will be thinner at the point where the guard sits than along itís length. This is usually because the blade is polished but the tang is not. To slide the guard into place you will have to reduce the thickness of the tang to match the blade. Always file the tang lengthwise, not across the width. File marks that cross the tang can weaken it.

Tangs on blades without a ricasso can be an issue as well. A ricasso is the squared portion at the base of most blades. The Karesuando blades are a good example. The square portion makes it easier to get a good fit of the bolster. Some blades are made without a ricasso. Itís a little easier to grind the blade without one. Blades that do not have a ricasso allow you to use the edge all the way to the base of the handle. Some upscale Finnish knives, like the Tommi pattern, do not use a ricasso for this reason. If the blade grind only extends part way down the tang you will have to extend it to slide the guard into place. An example of this would be Lauri Carving 80 mm. This is quite simple to do, but again, file down the length of the tang.

If you prefer to make your own guard there is a video linked from the bottom of the knife assembly page which shows how to do this.

Fittings from Lauri. Lauri makes quite a variety of fittings. I'll be adding more styles as time goes on. The ones marked "shaped" are particularly useful for those blades ground without a ricasso. (A ricasso is the square, unsharpened, portion found at the base of some blades.) The part numbers refer to the nominal width, length and thickness of the guard in millimeters. The English measurements are actual measurements taken from samples. As usual, you can click on the image for a larger image.

People seem to be getting this wrong. Order "SHAPED" if the blade does not have a ricasso. That is, if the grind continues into the tang area. Order "STRAIGHT" if the blade has a ricasso, with a squared area at the base of the blade.

I've added some "nickle silver" fittings. "Nickle silver" or "German silver" is a copper alloy with nickel and often zinc. The usual formulation is 60% copper, 20% nickel and 20% zinc. Nickel silver is named for its silvery appearance, but it contains no elemental silver. When you order please specify brass or nickle silver.

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larger image #13x18x2-SHAPED: about .513" wide, .713" high and .081" thick. The slot is about .391" long, and .080" wide in the upper portion. Suitable for the Lauri 60 and KBH-2/0 (a little loose on the Mora blade). brass is $2.50, nickle silver is $3.50

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larger image #15x22x3-SHAPED; about .593" wide, .874" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .529" long and .127" wide in the upper portion. Suitable for Lauri 62 and Mora #106, #120, and #122, (a little loose on the Mora blade) brass is $2.50, nickle silver is $3.50

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larger image #16x24x3-SHAPED; about .653" wide, .958" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .570" long and .127" wide in the upper portion. Suitable for the Lauri PT 95 blade without a ricasso. brass is $2.50, nickle silver is $3.50

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larger image #16x24x3-FILLET; about .653" wide, .958" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .605" long and .063" wide.brass is $2.50, nickle silver is $3.50

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larger image #18x28x3-STRAIGHT; about .726" wide, 1.078" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .546" long and .128" wide. It's suitable for Lauri blades 77, 99, 105, 125 with ricasso. Brass is $3.00, nickle silver is $4.00

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larger image #19x30x3-STRAIGHT; about .745" wide, 1.170" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .551" long and .128" wide. Suitable for the Lauri 105 with a ricasso. brass is $3.00, nickle silver is $4.00

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larger image #19x30x3-SHAPED; about .745" wide, 1.170" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .551" long and .128" wide in the upper portion. Suitable for the PT-77, PT-95 or 105 without a ricasso. brass is $3.00, nickle silver is $4.00

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larger image #19x30x3-butt-plate; about .745" wide, 1.170" high and .128" thick. The hole in the center is about .156" in diameter. Butt plates are used at the pommel end of the handle, with or without an end nut. A particulary neat application is to file the end of the tang to a rectangle and file the hole to match. Or you can just file the tang to match the hole. Peen the end of the tang to anchor it. In brass only, $3.00

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larger image #21x32x3-STRAIGHT; about .839" wide, 1.280" high and .127" thick. The slot is about .761" long and .123" wide in the upper portion. brass is $3.50, nickle silver is $4.50

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larger image #21x32x3-SHAPED; about .839" wide, 1.280" high and .127" thick. The slot is about .761" long and .123" wide in the upper portion. Suitable for the Little Leuku 72 or similar blades. brass is $3.50, nickle silver is $4.50

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larger image #24X44X3-STRAIGHT; about .965" wide, 1.732" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .791" long and .133" wide Suitable for the Lauri Leuku blade. brass is $4.00, nickle silver is $5.00

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larger image Ferrule 15x23x13-SHAPED; about .600" wide and .875" high at the base. The slot is about .754" long and .123" wide on the upper portion. Suitable for the Lauri 95. brass is $2.00, nickle silver is $3.00

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larger image Ferrule 15x23x13-STRAIGHT; about .600" wide and .875" high at the base. The slot is about .754" long and .123" wide. Suitable for the Lauri 105. brass is $2.00, nickle silver is $3.00

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larger image Butt-Cap 22x32x5; about .852" wide, 1.253" high and .020 deep. brass is $2.00, nickle silver is $3.00
Butt-Cap 25x35x5, about .949" wide, 1.41" high and .020 deep. brass is $2.00, nickle silver is $3.00


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larger image Brass guard plates from Karesuando; these are brass stampings, and may require some flattening and polishing. They are about .122" thick. If you decide to use one of these, remember to file the guard to fit the tang, not the tang to fit the guard!
#3545; an oval plate 1.16" high and .795 wide. The slot is for the 2.5mm thick blade (.600" high and .095" wide). $4.00
#3546; an oval plate 1.16" high and .795 wide. The slot is for the 3.2mm thick blade (.59" high and .118" wide). $4.00
#3575-2.5; a plate with some material left for a finger guard, about .709" wide and 1.37" high. The slot is about .098" (2.5mm) wide and .550" high. $5.00
#3575-3.2, a plate with some material left for a finger guard, about .709" wide and 1.37" high. The slot is about .121" wide (3.2mm). $5.00
#3575-S; as above with a smaller slot about .098" wide and .550" high. $5.00


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larger image #99FRAM; Stainless steel guard plate from Helle, as used with the #HB-99 blade for the Helle Harding. It's about 1.20" tall, .65" wide and .11" thick. The slot is .666" long and .12" wide. $5.00


Nickel silver fittings from Brusletto;

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larger image #43200: the blade end ferrule from the old Brusletto Troll. It's about .89" tall, .60" wide, and .254" deep. The slot is about .115" wide and .454" long. It's suitable for use with the Lauri 95, 105 and 125 carving blades with ricasso. It would also work with the Karesuando 3540, 3542, 3547 and 3549, but the slot would be a bit wide for a perfect fit. $5

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larger image #43201: the matching pommel end ferrule from the old Brusletto Troll. It's about .89" tall, .60" wide, and .254" deep. The hole in the center is about .300" wide and should be used with a suitable nut. $5

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larger image #48220: the matching pommel end nut from the old Brusletto Troll. It's about .9" tall, the base of the flange is about .36" wide and the outside diameter of the threaded shaft is about .229. It doesn't engage the end of the tang, but is simply set into the wood. The tang is shortened and set into the wood with an adhesive such as epoxy. $5

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larger image Brass fittings from Mora of Sweden, They are the same as used on the #277 and #311 knives. (The #311 knife and blade have been discontinued.)
#9262; blade end ferrule from the #277, about .684" tall at the base, .508" wide and .633" deep. The slot is .475" long and .107" wide. $4.
#9263; pommel end ferrule from the #277, about .682" tall, .508" wide and .633" deep. The hole is .193" wide. $4.
#9264; blade end ferrule from the #311, about .860" tall, .424" wide and .503" deep. The slot is .702" long and .129" wide. $4. Out of Stock
#9265; pommel end ferrule from the #311, about .860" tall, .424" wide and .538" deep. The hole is .228" wide. $4.
#9270; pommel nut from the #277, about .307" tall, .314" in diameter. The tapered hole is .155" at the base, and .161" at the top. The taper improves retention when the tang is peened. $2.50

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larger image End nuts from Helle;
#h1; (left) a flush fit pommel nut as used on the Fjelkniv, OD's are .393" and .285", height is .280", ID is .148". $2.50
#h2; (right) a taller pommel nut as used on the Nying to provide for a keeper strap. OD's are .276" and .373", height .401", ID is .141". $2.50

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larger image Leather pieces for making sheaths; they are cowhide, about 9 1/2" long and 4 3/4" wide. The tanning is done with Oak bark, a traditional, all vegetable process. When wet, the leather becomes soft and pliable. This makes it easy to work and mold to shape. It will dry stiff and hard. After it dries to shape, you should seal it to keep out moisture. A was sealing process is described on the sheath making page . Or you can use regular waterproofing if you want it to be less stiff. .
I currently stock the following weights:
#OAK4-5; "4-5oz", which is about .07" to .08" thick, 5" wide and 9" long, (Out of Stock)
#OAK5-6; "5-6oz", which is about .08" to .09" thick, 5" wide and 9" long. (Out of Stock._
#OAK9-10, "9-10oz, which is about .15" to 16" thick, 5" wide and 9" long. $8.00

If you are going to use a lot of leather, you can get it more cheaply at M. Steffan's Sons, Inc. (tel. 716 852-6771) This is probably the oldest leather goods store in the nation, founded in 1851. It's still under the same name and family. Now operated by the fifth generation, it's a great source for leather and leather working supplies. This is where I get the leather I sell for knife sheaths. If you are going to make more than a few sheaths, you would be better off getting large pieces from Linda. Then you can fit the patterns to the leather and reduce waste. A piece of leather that will make four of the rectangular pieces shown above will usually make five or six sheaths.

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larger image Plastic inserts for sheaths; Iíve had a number of requests for the plastic inserts that many of the Scandinavian factories use in their sheaths. If I use an insert myself, I prefer to carve it out of wood. That way I get just what I want, and it seems more in keeping with the traditional nature of the Scandinavian design. However for those folks who prefer a ready made insert, Iíve added the following styles. They are nicely made in two parts, with one half taking the full thickness of the blade so the edge of the knife is not on the seam. The mouth is slightly funneled for easy entry, and the outside of the insert is nicely rounded. There are four styles:
#3544; a straight insert for blades up to 3/4" wide (19 mm) and 4 1/16" (107 mm) long, $4
#3555; a straight insert for blades up to 1 1/8" wide (31 mm) and 5 3/4" (150 mm) long, $4
#3556; a curved insert for blades up to 3/4" (22 mm) wide and 4 3/8" (110 mm) long, $4
#3557; a curved insert for blades up to 5/8" (18.5 mm) wide and 3 5/8" (95 mm) long, $4

If the size of the curved insert is a better fit for your blade, and you prefer a straight insert, you can remove the curved portion.

Click here for 
larger image #LAURI-INSERT-110x24; a one piece sheath insert for blades up to about 4 3/8" (110 mm) long, and about 15/16" (24 mm) wide. $2


Ordering

Shipping and handling is $6 per order (not per item) anywhere in the US. Standard shipping is by Priority Mail, so please give me your mailing address, not your UPS address. The $6 doesn't actually cover the cost in many cases, but it's easy to calculate, and is my way of saying "thank you".

Orders in New York State require sales tax. If you don't know the sales tax in your county, I can calculate it for you, but you should expect it to be added. This applies only to orders shipped to addresses within New York State.

I'm sorry, U.S. orders only please.

Most folks use a credit card and the encrypted secure order form. If you prefer, you can FAX your order to 716-731-3715. I'll need the type of card (Discover, Visa, or Master Charge), card number and expiration date. Of course I'll also need to know what you are buying, and where to send it. Please include your e-mail address.

If you don't have a FAX, you can call 716-731-3715. If your timing is good, you can just speak to me and give me the order. If I'm not in the office it will default to the FAX machine. No collect calls.

If instant gratification is unavailable, you can always send a Postal Money Order or check to:

Ragweed Forge
PO Box 326
Sanborn, NY 14132

The Postal Snail may be slow, but he's faithful and discreet. Checks may be held for clearance, so if you're in a hurry, use a money order.

Everything on the page should be on hand and ready to ship. However some items may be short supply, so if you are ordering by mail, you might want to e-mail first so that I can hold your item (ragnar@ragweedforge.com).


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