I get a lot of inquiries on how to select a throwing ‘hawk, so here's a quick primer for those who are new to the sport. First, you should not take these suggestions too seriously. Almost any axe can be thrown, and if you have a strong preference for a style that does not fit my suggestions you can probably make it work.
The key to sticking is consistency. This is most easily attained with an axe or 'hawk with a bit of mass. It's best to throw heaviest you can without strain. For most people this means a head weight of about 16 ounces.
Most people stick a ‘hawk with the handle at an angle of about 45ş to the surface of the block. If the upper corner of the edge forms an acute point with the top of the head, it will penetrate deeper and be less likely to fall out. If the point of the edge is above the line of the top of the handle, the axe will still stick if over rotated so the handle forms more of a right angle to the surface of the block. If the edge of the hawk is curved rather than straight, it will be more likely to stick if under rotated so the handle and the edge are parallel to the block.
Using these criteria, the French Lady ‘Hawk and Viking Belt Axe should be excellent throwing axes, and this is in fact the case. Several of the others are not far behind however. The Cold Steel Norse pattern works very well (especially if you thin the edge a bit), as does the Octagon. Again, these are fine differences, and not hard and fast rules. I’m told the Viking Bearded Axe throws very well by those who have purchased one, and it does not closely follow the above guidelines.
When sharpening an axe for throwing I like to leave the fine grooves from a medium grinding belt on the bevel. I try to orient them so they will be more or less parallel the surface of the block when the handle is at a 45 degree angle. This helps to keep the blade in the block on a marginal throw. This will be standard on the Slasinski throwing 'hawks unless you tell me you want a polished bevel.
If you need to resharpen your axe you will probably want to use a file and a stone. I use a belt grinder because I have one. I don't know that I'd buy one for the purpose. Unless you have other uses for a sander or grinder, a good file should work just fine. I say "good file" because files are much more fragile then they look, and most are abused. It's best to start with a new one, preferably bastard cut (with teeth running only one way rather than "criss-cross"). This style leaves a cleaner surface and less of a burr. Keep the teeth clear of chips. Chips will gouge the surface and may cause the file to skate on the edge. USE A GUARD. If the file does lose bite and skate, it can cause you to drive your hand onto the edge. Apply the file to the metal only on the forward stroke. Lift it off for the return. If you press on the return you will break or bend the teeth and destroy the file very quickly. File with a rocking motion to form a convex edge. A good file will leave very little burr, and you can easily clean this up with a stone. When you are done, wrap your file in paper, or store it in a rack, so the teeth don't rattle against other tools. The teeth on a file are very brittle and break easily. A new file with sharp teeth will just cut the hardened steel of even heat treated axes and blades. A dull one will slide. Here's an excellent article on axe sharpening.
If you throw 'hawks, eventually you break handles. As you get better, you break them less often. Of course if you play "split the handle" with your friends, you'll break a lot more handles. Fitting a new handle should be fairly easy with the correct replacement. Ideally, the new handle should go in easily and snug up an inch or so from position. A couple of firm strikes from a fairly heavy hammer should be all you need. (A heavy hammer tends to move the new handle into position with less damage.) This only works if the head is supported by a stout vise. If you don't have a stout vise you might as well use a medium hammer.
However, this isn't an ideal world and you will probably have to do some fitting. If your new handle won't go in far enough, tap it in lightly, then back out. The tight spots will leave marks on the wood. Remove the marks with a wood rasp, knife, sandpaper, or whatever tool you prefer, and repeat until the handle is close to position. Then seat it firmly. I've had some questions on how to remove a broken handle. I'd first try sawing it off a couple of inches below the head to provide a solid surface for pounding, then drive it out. It's tapered, so once it's started the rest should be easy. If it's broken close to the head, saw it off and try driving it with something having a flat end. If that fails, try drilling several holes from the top, then pound out the pieces. If all else fails, you can burn it out. If the axe has been heat treated you must keep the edge cool while you are doing this. The Slasinski hawks aren't heat treated, so this isn't necessary.A word about targets: My favorite target is the end grain of a section of softwood log. I like them as large as I can conveniently handle, but at least 18” in diameter and about the same length. Two or three feet is a lot better. Willow or poplar is best, but any soft wood will work nicely. A harder wood requires a stronger throw to stick. I just bore three 2” holes in the side and use sections of saplings or branches as legs. That way if I break one of the legs it’s easy to replace. I can also remove the legs if I want to transport the target. I set them about chest height.
If you don’t have ready access to sections of large log, you can often get them from a local tree service. If you cut your own it’s often free. If they have to cut them for you there may be nominal charge.
Index
A-23R; The French Lady 'Hawk is pattered after a very old style of
throwing axe called a francisca. The Gauls gave Caesar a rather hard time
with axes much like these. The pattern was in use over a very long period,
and examples have been found as late as the American Colonial period. The head weighs 16 ounces, and has a 4" cutting edge.
The increased upsweep improves sticking. This is the most popular axe
I sell with the local SCA folks. I throw this one quite a lot myself.
It comes with an 18" handle of American Hickory or Ash. While it's not evident from
the picture, the tapered handle is inserted from the top in the same fashion as
the other 'hawks. The price is $43. Out of Stock
The replacement handle is the "OS" style listed below.
Click on the image for a larger picture.
A-23J; Another version of the French throwing hawk. This one is a bit heavier.
The head of the basic French 'hawk weighs 20 ounces and has a 4" cutting
edge, making it suitable for any competition. It comes with an 18" Hickory
handle. The price is $43. Out of Stock
The replacement handle is the "TD" style listed below.
A-23G; The Viking Belt Axe is typical of the all purpose fighting and utility
axe of the Viking period. It has the pronounced "ears" flanking the handle that were
common on Viking axes. The blade has a pronounced upsweep for good throwing
capability. There's a flat on the back for pounding wooden tent stakes, but I don't
think it solid enough for steel stakes. I plan to give one
of these a trial as a general camp axe as well as a throwing 'hawk. The
head weighs 15 1/2 ounces. The 4 1/2" edge bars this one from NMLRA
throwing competition, but is not usually a problem in the SCA. It takes the TD
replacement handle listed below. The price is $43. Out of Stock
The replacement handle is the "TD" style listed below.
A-23V; The Viking Bearded Axe is a close copy of one found
in Gotland. It's a bit heavier than the belt axe, with a head weight of about 18 ounces.
The cutting edge is about 4 1/4". This could be used as either a tool or a weapon.
The beard is also handy for hooking the edge of enemy shields. It comes with an 18" handle of
American Hickory. The price is $45 Out of Stock
The replacement handle is the "TD" style listed below.
A-23B; the Octagon 'hawk is in the style of a better quality frontier 'hawk. It has nicely finished panels reminiscent of "white work", the term for blacksmith work that was finished with a file to remove the forge scale and produce a smooth surface. The cutting edge is about 3 3/4", and the head weighs about 14 ounces. Pete Allan tells me this is the most popular 'hawk among the blackpowder shooters. I can see why. The price is $43
The replacement handle is the "A-TD" style listed below.
The replacement handle is the "A-TD" style listed below.
A-23C; The British Belt Axe is very similar to those issued to British troops during
the American Revolution. The pattern was used by both sides, and
examples have been
found in the camps of both Brittish and American forces. The head weighs about 16
ounces and has a 3 1/2" cutting edge. It has a pronounced poll, which was coming into
favor at this time. This improves the balance for ordinary chores. It comes with a 18" handle for $43. Out of stock
The replacement handle is the "A-TD" style listed below.
A-23I; The "Hand Forged" 'hawk is not really hand forged, but is modeled on one that is, just for the look. The head weighs about 15 ounces and has a 4" cutting edge. This one is nice for folks who like the hand forged look, but want the consistancy of castings for matched sets. It comes with a 18" handle for $43
The replacement handle is the "A-TD" style listed below.
The replacement handle is the "A-TD" style listed below.
A-23S; The Woodland 'hawk has the narrow blade
favored by the Eastern Woodland tribes of North America. This increases penetration and
makes it an excellent thrower, as well as a deadly weapon. The shape of the head at the
eyes shows some French influence. The pattern is very old, and it
wouldn't be out of place for earlier time periods as well. The head weighs about 12 ounces
and has a 2 3/4" cutting edge. It comes with a 18" handle for $43. (Out of stock)
The replacement handle is the "A-OS" style listed below.
A-TD, 18" hickory or ash, for the French, Flared French, Viking, "Hand Forged",
Octagon, weeping heart and Medieval 'hawks, $5.
A-OS, 18" hickory or ash, for the Lady French,Iroquois, and Woodland 'hawks, $5.
A-DS, 22" hickory, for the Viking war axe and Warrior axe (these axes are not currently
available, but I have handles for those who have purchased them in the past. $8.
A-TDC, 14" hickory, for the Child's 'hawk, $4.50.
A-FM, 14" hickory, for the Fort Meigs, $5.00
Mike Slasinski has an extensive collection of early American axes and 'hawks. These patterns are inspired by the original pieces. They are castings of 4140 steel, which results in a very tough 'hawk for throwing, but one which will still hold something of an edge for other work. They are treated with a hot salt bath to give the look of an old dug artifact (read very rusty!). Of course when I sharpen them this finish is removed at the edge. If you would like me to refrain from sharpening your 'hawk to preserve the finish (and make it safer to carry in your belt), let me know. A bit of WD-40 or furnature wax will darken the rusted surface to the blackened finish of old well used tools.
#S-K: The Slasinski Kid's Hawk is a light belt axe in the frontier
tradition. The head weighs just over 7 ounces, making it easy to throw.
The cutting edge is about 2 3/4".
Many fighting axes, from the Viking period onward, were quite light.
This one would be wickedly fast in a fight. It comes with an 18" handle.
The price is $37.
#S-FL: The Slasinski Flared Hawk is a pattern that was common from
the Viking period through the American Colonial period. This one is
also light and fast. The head weighs just over 9 ounces, but there is
4" of cutting edge. I really like this one. It's light to carry but has
just enough mass to do useful work. The curved blade allows you to choke
up on the handle and use the edge for skinning large game, or with a
cutting board for dicing. The curve would fit a wooden bowl nicely.
The price is $39.
#S-HA: The Slasinski Hammer 'Hawk is a bit more substantial. The head weighs
about 12 ounces and the handle is much thicker. The cutting edge is just under 3", and the head is just
under 8" in length. It comes with a 19" handle that is quite
a bit thicker than the one used with the kid's hawk. It's very similar to one pictured in Newman and Kravic's Collector's Illustrated
Encyclopedia of the American Revolution.
The price is $45.
Spare handles for the Slasinski 'hawks are $5 each for the 18" and 19"
size, and $6 for the 22" size. Either the 18" or the 22" handles will fit
the Flared, French or Kid's 'hawk. The others take the 19" handle.
It's best to let me know for which hawk you are getting the handle.
Cold Steel brand axes are precision drop forged from a medium carbon 5150 steel. This gives them just enough carbon to harden with heat treatment, while retaining excellent toughness. They are differentially heat treated so that the cutting edge is hardened, while the rest is left relatively soft to absorb shock.
Drop forging involves the use of dies and massive power hammers. The result is more consistent than hand forging (but not as consistent as the castings shown above). This is an advantage when buying axes in matched sets for throwing. They have relatively large eyes, so the handles are thicker and stouter, and therefore less likely to break. The larger diameter handle also gives a better grip when the hawk is used for chopping rather than throwing. The handles are straight grained American Hickory, and the heads are produced in Taiwan.Some production is marked "American Tomahawk Company", but the heads are still made in Taiwan. There is also an American company with this name which is not connected with Cold Steel. I understand there have been some problems over this, and your hawk may, or may not, be marked in this way.
CS-90T: The Trail 'Hawk is light and quick with an 11 ounce head. The cutting edge is narrow (2 1/4") for penetration, and it has a useful hammer poll with a hardened face. The average weight with the handle is listed as 19 ounces, but my samples were a few ounces heavier. $35.
These are forged in India where labor is cheap. You get the advantage of traditional construction at a fraction of what it would cost to make here. Because of the hand work, dimensions will vary a bit. They are supplied with Asian hardwood handles, probably Paduk. Some come with fairly good edges, some do not. The steel is soft enough to file if you need to, or I can grind them to a working edge for an extra $6.
H52 Viking Throwing Axe. This is a big axe for a thrower. The stout handle is a bit over 23 inches long. A sample head weighed 21 ounces and had about 4 1/2 inches of cutting edge. It's just over 2 pounds with the handle and might be better as a two handed thrower. $39.
H53 The Bearded Axe. This is another style from the Viking period. It has additional
mass due to the added "beard". The head of a sample weighed about 23 ounces,
and had about 5 inches of cutting edge. It would make a useful camp axe or two-handed
throwing axe. $39 Out of Stock.
I now have spare handles for the H52 and H53. They are American Hickory and about 26" long. I think the slight extra length is useful, and Hickory is much tougher than the Asian wood. These are made in the USA by Amish folks. If you are trying to fit another axe, at the eye they measure about 1 1/4" (1.22") by 11/16" (1/69"). $8.
#MR006; Webster Marble was an inventor and professional timber cruiser in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan during
the late 1890's. By 1898 he started a small company to produce innovative products for outdoorsmen.
One of his signature products was the "Safety Axe" with a guard that folded into the handle. They did not
require a sheath, and were sized to fit in the pocket of a mackinaw. This is a reproduction of one of these
pocket axes. It's about 12" overall, with a 4 3/4" carbon steel head and about 2 3/4" of cutting edge.
It weighs about one pound, six ounces. The samples I checked had very poor edges. You can sharpen
it to your preference, or I'll do if for you for an extra $7. The price without sharpening is $25.
It's priced this way because it's made under license in China. They have been in storage, The
boxes may be damaged and the heads may have minor rust spots which will not affect the function.
Let me know if it's a gift and you would like me to select a nicer looking box, etc.
#MR005; This is a slightly smaller version. It's about 11" overall, with a 4 5/8" carbon steel head and about 2 1/4" of cutting edge. The narrow head makes quite a difference, and a sample weighed one pound, two
ounces. It doesn't sound like that much less, but they feel very different in the hand. They have been
in storage and are likely to have rust spots. The price without sharpening is $23. One in Stock
It's priced this way because it's made under license in China.
#MR000; The Mini is a lot smaller. It weighs just over a half pound (9 3/4
ounces with the sheath). The the head is about 4 1/2" with a cutting edge just over 2". The hickory handle is about 10 1/2" long. $34
It's priced this way because it's made under license in China.
#MR009DB; Here's another recreation from the 1800's, a double bitted hunter's axe. It was common
to keep one edge razor sharp for chopping and skinning, and the other a bit blunter for cartilage or knotty
wood. The handle is 14 1/2" long, and has a useful swell below the handle. This improves the grip when
choking up on the handle for skinning or carving. The carbon steel head is just under 5" wide with 2 3/4"
cutting edges. It weighs about one pound, six ounces. The samples I checked had very useable edges
out of the box. The axe is supplied with a belt sheath for $34 Out of Stock.
It's priced this way because it's made under license in China. They have been in storage. The
boxes may be damaged and the heads may have minor rust spots which will not affect the function.
Let me know if it's a gift and you would like me to select a nicer looking box, etc.
I do not believe that the throwing of knives was common in any historical Western Culture. I can't recall seeing very many (any?) period throwing knives from Europe or the American Colonies. It's great fun however, and very popular with reenactors of all periods.
Repeated throwing is very hard on a knife. Unless the knife is designed for the purpose it will quickly be destroyed. Conversely, a knife that will stand up to throwing isn't usually good for much else. You might be able to split some firewood, and I certainly wouldn't want to be stuck with one, but they are not versatile multi-purpose tools as are the Scandinavian knives.
I've decided to carry the following types of throwing knives. They are not based on historical examples because I know of none.
The Heavy Throwing Knife weighs about 19 ounces,
more than some of the 'hawks I sell. It's about 13 1/2" long, 2 1/8" wide, and the blade is
3/16" (.197") thick, It comes with thick leather handles secured with screw fittings for
easy replacement. The rotation is similar to that of the hawks, so you don't have to
change your style of thowing drastically. There's no real edge, but you don't need one
for throwing. It would be easy enough to file or grind an edge if you wanted to use it for
spliting firewood, etc. No sheath is provided. It's made in India, so the price is $15.
Special, three for $40.
Knife and Tomahawk Throwing, by Harry K. McEvoy. Mr. McEvoy is the founder of the American Knife Throwers Alliance and the author of numerous books, articles and training manuals. This is his introduction to the sport of knife and tomahawk throwing. The little pamphlet is only 28 pages long, but covers the selection of throwing knives, stances and grips, how to build a target, tips on accuracy, and even a brief section on hunting. The price is only $5.
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