I offer knife blades, and other bits and pieces, separately for those who would like to build their own knives. These are the same high quality blades used in the knives from the various companies. They are sharpened and polished, ready to mount. Adding your own handle is a fairly simple project, and a good introduction to knife making. The result is uniquely your own, and something you can use with pride. Making a sheath is not that difficult either. The handcrafted look will enhance your historical outfit, or your regular outdoor gear.
I personally prefer carbon steel over stainless steel. In equal quality blades, I feel it is easier to sharpen and holds a better edge. (There is some difference of opinion on this.) There is no denying however, that the Scandinavian stainless steel works very well. They do a lot of salt water fishing and are rather fussy about their knives, so they've learned to make a stainless knife that works. In speaking with the folks at the various factories over there, they seemed to find my interest in carbon steel rather strange. Most of their upscale knives are done in their high quality stainless.
The metric measurements given are taken from the catalogs and are nominal. The English measurements are taken from sample pieces, and may vary somewhat depending on polish, etc.
These are the excellent laminated steel blades from Helle. They have an outer layer of tough steel for durability, and a hard inner core (HRC 58-59) for superior edges. Except for the HB-96 (Viking blade), Helle blades have the Helle logo etched on the blade.
The thickness may vary due to polishing.
I've since added the following blades.
These are traditional Norwegian Tollekniv blades. The Tollekniv was, and
is, the knife used for all things, but especially woodworking. The blades are a bit larger and stouter than is
usual, being 4 3/8" (11cm.) long and 7/8" (.905") wide. It comes in laminated stainless or laminated
carbon steel. The stainless is .125" thick, and comes with a satin polish. The carbon is about .150" thick, and
comes with the black of the heat treat left on the sides for a rustic look. It seems to have been made
directly from the hot rolled stock, and almost looks forged. The carbon blade is used on the current
version of the Viking.
#HB-1-s; the laminated stainless blade is $25.00
#HB-96; the laminated carbon steel blade is $20.00
People ask which bolsters can be used with these blades. They are normally used on knives which do have bolsters. A very elegant knife can be made without a bolster. If you want to use a bolster you will probably have to modify the base of the blade. The base of does not have a shape to solidly position a bolster. I think the most practical way would be to file shallow shoulders to position the bolster. They wouldn't have to be the full depth of the bolster, but just enough to firmly position it in place. The carbon version would work with one of the Lauri bolsters. The stainless version is too thin for the slots on the Lauri bolsters, so you would have to start with a blank, or just make your own.
For fishermen, I've added some Helle fillet blades.
Because fillet blades should be thin, these are not laminated. Because
they will be used around water, they are stainless.
The #HB-115 is the same blade used in the "Steinbit". It is just over 6", thin (just .087" at the base) and flexible, $19.00
The #HB-120, as used in the "Hellefisk". It is about 5" and a little stiffer in the Norwegian style (about .090" at the base), $19.00
#HB-70 is the blade from the Helle Lapplander leuku. It's a big blade, 8 1/2" long, over 1 1/2" wide and .102" thick. It's done in polished Sandvik 12C27 stainless for $35.00
#HB-300 is the blade from the Helle Temagami. The sharpened portion is about 4" long, 1 1/16" wide and .121" thick. Including the tang, it's just 9" overall, done in satin polished laminated stainless. The rivet holes are about .20" in diameter, the thong hole is about .25" in diameter. This would make a seriously stout wilderness or utility knife. $39.00
#HB-301; The same blade is now available in laminated carbon steel. $34.00
Karesuando is well into the Sami (Lapplander) portion of Sweden, and these blades resemble the Finnish style more than the usual Swedish style. Both carbon steel and stainless steel blades are hardened to 57 HRC. They do not have any markings. These blades are very nicely ground and have stouter than average tangs for hard usage. The tangs are quite long, at about 4 1/4", but it's easy to shorten them if necessary.
Stainless steel blades:
I've added two more stainless Karesuando blades. These are wider and stouter than the others. The tangs are shorter however, at about 2 3/8".
#3560; about 3 1/4" long, 15/16" wide, and .130" thick $22.75
#3561; about 3 7/8" long, 15/16" wide, and .130" thick. $25.75
For those who prefer kit of pre-matched parts, I’ve included two from Karesuando.
#3526: A kit based on the Karesuando #3549 blade, which is carbon steel, about 3 ½” long, .72” wide and .098” thick. Also included are a block of curly birch, a brass bolster, reindeer antler spacer block, leather for the sheath, a plastic liner for the sheath, a thin leather strip for the suspension thong, and sewing thread. There are instructions in English, which suggest you will also need strong glue, saw, files or rasps, abrasive paper in different grades, small clamps, electric drill (or preferably a drill press), drills, hammer, measuring tools, carving knife, punches, long nose pliers, leather needles and an awl. I would consider this an intermediate or moderately advanced level project.
$65 Out of Stock
Here are YouTube videos of how one man completed the knife and the sheath.
#3527: A kit based on the Karesuando #3550 blade, which is 12C27 stainless steel, about 3 7/8 long, .84” wide and .098” thick. Also included are a block of curly birch, a brass bolster, reindeer antler spacer block, leather for the sheath, a plastic liner for the sheath, a thin leather strip for the suspension thong, and sewing thread. There are instructions in English, which suggest you will also need strong glue, saw, files or rasps, abrasive paper in different grades, small clamps, electric drill (or preferably a drill press), drills, hammer, measuring tools, carving knife, punches, long nose pliers, leather needles and an awl. I would consider this an intermediate or moderately advanced level project. $69.75
High carbon laminated steel blades; These are the famous laminated Mora blades. There are three layers. The center layer is AISI O1, hardened to 58 - 60 on the Rockwell scale. The side layers are a softer grade of steel for toughness. They will hold an edge like a straight razor, but are not brittle. In fact they bend fairly easily and should not be chosen for uses where this will be a problem. The blades vary a bit due to the polishing process, but are about .106" thick. The measurements given are taken from a sample blade and may vary a little. Mora of Sweden was formed from the former Frosts and Eriksson companies. Most blades are marked with the new Mora logo, but some have the old Frosts stamping.
High carbon non-laminated blades; non laminated blades do not have soft sides, so they can be made thinner and still retain stiffness. Thinner blades slice better. These all have the classic Mora shape with a slight clip. They are made from C100 steel, and are hardened to 58 - 60 on the Rockwell scale. The spine of the blades is left rough from the stamping process. You may want to smooth it for appearance, or square up the corners for performance on a fire rod.
The high carbon Roselli blades are forged from Krupp W75 with a carbon content of .7 - .8%, and hardened to HRC 59 - 62. They are unique among the blades I carry in that they are forged rather than ground to shape. The blades are forged to shape in dies, then finished by hand. The upper sides of the blades still have the forge scale, and the bevels are ground cleanly to the edge with little or no secondary bevel. They are very sharp and ready to work. There are no blade markings.
Ultra High Carbon Roselli blades have a carbon content of 1.5 - 2.0%. They are hardened to HRC 64 - 66. As good as the high carbon blades are, these are said to hold an edge about twice as long. It is not practical to sharpen them on a stone, and they require a diamond plate or ceramic.
The blades are stout working patterns with a plain satin finish. They are ground from German 1075 carbon steel, hardened and tempered to a hardness of 56-58 on the Rockwell Scale.. Condor blades are stamped "CONDOR" on one side, and "EL SALVADOR" on the other.
Fittings are not a requirement. Some very elegant knives are made with only a blade and a piece of wood. But many people feel that a bolster or guard dresses up a knife. It also lets you make an oversized hole in the handle, fill it with epoxy, then hide it with a nicely fitted bolster. This is usually quicker and easier than doing a precise fit of the wood to the base of the blade.
Not all blades work well with a bolster. The base of the needs to be flat so it can mate the surface of the bolster. Ideally the tang should be about the same width as the slot of the bolster so it stays solidly in place. If the base of the blade isn't square you may be able to file it to provide a flat surface and shoulders to anchor the bolster.
If you use a bolster or guard it should fit as closely as possible to the blade. Often I think it’s better to make your own, but these can save you some time. When selecting a fitting, look for one with an opening that is a bit smaller than the blade at the point where it will sit. You can file the opening larger for an exact fit, but you can’t file it smaller. Likewise the outer dimensions need to be large enough for the handle you are planning. Again, you can file the outside smaller, or to a more graceful shape, but it’s harder to add metal to a guard that’s too narrow.
Actually it is possible to tighten the fit of a guard that is slightly loose on the tang. I've had good results by placing the guard on a flat, polished piece of steel and striking it squarely with a fairly heavy hammer. I use a jeweler's anvil and a five pound hammer with a polished face. Of course you may have to polish out the hammer marks.
Often the tang will be thicker than the blade where the guard will sit. This is usually because the blade is polished but the tang is not. To slide the guard into place you will have to reduce the thickness of the tang to match the blade. Always file or sand the tang lengthwise, not across the width. File marks that cross the tang can weaken it.
Tangs on blades without a ricasso can be an issue as well. A ricasso is the squared portion at the base of most blades. The Karesuando blades are a good example. The square portion makes it easier to get a good fit of the bolster. Some blades are made without a ricasso. It’s a little easier to grind the blade without one. Blades that do not have a ricasso allow you to use the edge all the way to the base of the handle. Some upscale Finnish knives, like the Tommi pattern, do not use a ricasso for this reason. If the blade grind only extends part way down the tang you will have to extend it to slide the guard into place. An example of this would be Lauri Carving 80 mm. This is quite simple to do, but again, file down the length of the tang.
If you prefer to make your own guard there is a video linked from the bottom of the knife assembly page which shows how to do this.
Fittings from Lauri. Lauri makes quite a variety of fittings. I'll be adding more styles as time goes on. The ones marked "shaped" are particularly useful for those blades ground without a ricasso. (A ricasso is the square, unsharpened, portion found at the base of some blades.) The part numbers refer to the nominal width, length and thickness of the guard in millimeters. The English measurements are actual measurements taken from samples. As usual, you can click on the image for a larger image.
People seem to be getting this wrong. Order "SHAPED" if the blade does not have a ricasso. That is, if the grind continues into the tang area. Order "STRAIGHT" if the blade has a ricasso, with a squared area at the base of the blade.
I've added some "nickel silver" fittings. "nickel silver" or "German silver" is a copper alloy with nickel and often zinc. The usual
formulation is 60% copper, 20% nickel and 20% zinc. Nickel silver is named for its silvery appearance,
but it contains no elemental silver. When you order please specify brass or nickel silver.
#13x18x2-SHAPED: about .513" wide, .713" high and .081" thick. The slot is about .391" long, and .080" wide in the upper portion. Suitable for the Lauri 60 and KBH-2/0 (a little loose on the Mora blade). brass is $2.50, nickel silver is $3.50
#15x22x3-SHAPED; about .593" wide, .874" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .529" long and .127" wide in the upper portion. Suitable for Lauri 62 and Mora #106, #120, and #122, (a little loose on the Mora blade) brass is
$2.50 Out of Stock, (you can get the 16x24x3 and trim it just a bit), nickel silver is $3.50
#16x24x3-SHAPED; about .653" wide, .958" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .570" long and .127" wide in the upper portion. Suitable for the Lauri PT 95 blade without a ricasso. brass is $2.50, nickel silver is $3.50
#16x24x3-FILLET; about .653" wide, .958" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .605" long and .063" wide. brass is $2.50, nickel silver is $3.50
#18x28x3-STRAIGHT; about .726" wide, 1.078" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .546" long and .128" wide. It's suitable for Lauri blades 77, 99, 105, 125 with ricasso. Brass is $3.00, nickel silver is
$4.00 Out of Stock
#18x28x3-shaped; about .726" wide, 1.078" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .546" long and .128" wide. Brass is $3.00, nickel silver is $4.00
#18x35x3-straight; about .696" wide, 1.39" high and .121" thick. The slot is about .563" long and .128" wide. It includes a more pronounced finger guard. Brass is $3.00, nickel silver is $4.00
I actually do have some brass in stock, but the slots are longer, and sized for the little leuku blades.
#18x35x3-shaped; about .696" wide, 1.39" high and .121" thick. The slot is about .563" long and .128" wide. It includes a more pronounced finger guard. Brass is $3.00, nickel silver is $4.00
#19x30x3-STRAIGHT; about .745" wide, 1.170" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .551" long and .128" wide. Suitable for the Lauri 105 with a ricasso. brass is $3.00, nickel silver is $4.00
#19x30x3-SHAPED; about .745" wide, 1.170" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .551" long and .128" wide in the upper portion. Suitable for the PT-77, PT-95 or 105 without a ricasso. brass is $3.00, nickel silver is $4.00
#19x30x3-blank-plate; about .745" wide, 1.170" high and .128" thick. This one is made without any slot or hole so so you can make your own to fit odd sized blades. Brass is $3.00, nickel silver is $4.00.
#19x30x3-butt-plate; about .745" wide, 1.170" high and .128" thick. The hole in the center is about .156" in diameter. Butt plates are used at the pommel end of the handle, with or without an end nut. A particulary neat application is to file the end of the tang to a rectangle and file the hole to match. Or you can just file the tang to match the hole. Peen the end of the tang to anchor it. Brass is
$3.00 Out of Stock, you could use the blank bolster and drill your own hole, nickel silver is $4.00.
#21x32x3-STRAIGHT; about .839" wide, 1.280" high and .127" thick. The slot is about .761" long and .123" wide in the upper portion. brass is $3.50, nickel silver is $4.50
#21x32x3-SHAPED; about .839" wide, 1.280" high and .127" thick. The slot is about .761" long and .123" wide in the upper portion. Suitable for the Little Leuku 72 or similar blades. brass is $3.50, nickel silver is $4.50
#24X44X3-STRAIGHT; about .965" wide, 1.732" high and .128" thick. The slot is about .791" long and .133" wide Suitable for the Lauri Leuku blade. Brass is $4.00, nickel silver is $5.00
#25x39x2-BUTT-PLATE; about .996" wide, 1.527" high and .078" thick. The hole in the center is about .150" in diameter. It's slightly domed in shape. Butt plates are used at the pommel end of the handle, with or without an end nut. A particulary neat application is to file the end of the tang to a rectangle and file the hole to match. Or you can just file the tang to match the hole. Peen the end of the tang to anchor it. Brass is $4.00, nickel silver is $5.00
Ferrule 15x23x13-SHAPED; about .600" wide and .875" high at the base. The slot is about .754" long and .123" wide on the upper portion. Suitable for the Lauri 95. brass is $2.00, nickel silver is $3.00
Ferrule 15x23x13-STRAIGHT; about .600" wide and .875" high at the base. The slot is about .754" long and .123" wide. Suitable for the Lauri 105. brass is $2.00, nickel silver is $3.00
Ferrule 15x23x13-FILLET; about .600" wide and .875" high at the base. The slot is about .483" long and .069" wide. Suitable for the Lauri 160 fillet blade. brass is $2.00, nickel silver is $3.00
Butt-Cap 22x32x5; about .852" wide, 1.253" high and .211" deep. brass is $2.00, nickel silver is $3.00
Butt-Cap 30x46x7; about 1.158" wide, 1.793" high and .277 deep. brass is $2.50, nickel silver is $3.50
Brass guard plates from Karesuando; these are brass stampings, and may require
some flattening and polishing. They are about .122" thick. If you decide to use one of these,
remember to file the guard to fit the tang, not the tang to fit the guard!
#3545; an oval plate 1.16" high and .795 wide. The slot is for the 2.5mm thick blade (.600" high and .094" wide). $5.00
#3546; an oval plate 1.16" high and .795 wide. The slot is for the 3.2mm thick blade (.59" high and .118" wide). $5.00
#3575-2.5; a plate with some material left for a finger guard, about .709" wide and 1.37" high. The slot is about .098" (2.5mm) wide and .550" high.
$5.50 Out of Stock
#3575-3.2, a plate with some material left for a finger guard, about .709" wide and 1.37" high. The slot is about .121" wide (3.2mm).
$5.50 Out of Stock
#99FRAM; Stainless steel guard plate from Helle, as used with the #HB-99 blade for the Helle Harding. It's about 1.20" tall, .65" wide and .11" thick. The slot is .666" long and .12" wide. $5.00.
Brass fittings from Mora of Sweden, They are the same as used on the
#277 and #311 knives. (The #311 knife and blade have been discontinued.)
#9262; blade end ferrule from the #277, about .684" tall at the base, .508" wide and .633" deep. The slot is .475" long and .107" wide. $4.
#9263; pommel end ferrule from the #277, about .682" tall, .508" wide and .633" deep. The hole is .193" wide. $4.
#9264; blade end ferrule from the #311, about .860" tall, .424" wide and .503" deep. The slot is .702" long and .129" wide.
$4. Out of Stock
#9265; pommel end ferrule from the #311, about .860" tall, .424" wide and .538" deep. The hole is .228" wide. $4.
#9270; pommel nut from the #277, about .307" tall, .314" in diameter. The tapered hole is .155" at the base, and .161" at the top. The taper improves retention when the tang is peened. $2.50
Helle Lappland Ferrule; This is the ferrule used on the Helle Lappland. It's a solid casting about .93" wide, 1.56" high and .80" tall. It weighs about 2 1/4 ounces on my postal scale. The slot is .094" wide and 1.258" long. $7.50
Helle Lappland End Cap: The end cap used on the Helle Lappland. It's a but under 2" tall, 1 3/8" wide and 3/8" tall at the higher end. Note the rather odd slope, so one end is taller than the other. The hole is about .39" in diameter, so you would probably have to use the Helle H3 end nut shown below. $6.50
End nuts from Helle;
#h1; (left) a flush fit pommel nut as used on the Fjelkniv, OD's are .393" and .285", height is .280", ID is .148". $2.50
#h2; (right) a taller pommel nut as used on the Nying to provide for a keeper strap. OD's are .276" and .373", height .401", ID is .141". $2.50
#h3; a larger flush mounted nut as used on the Helle Lappland. The OD's are .627" and .412". The inside diameter of the hole is .192", which is too large for many of the blades. It can be made to work, but the tang isn't likely to completely fill the hole without a considerable amount of peening. It will work very nicely with the Roselli leuku blades. $3.
Leather pieces for making sheaths; they are cowhide, about 9 1/2" long and 4 3/4" wide.
The tanning is done with Oak bark, a traditional, all vegetable process.
When wet, the leather becomes soft and pliable. This makes it easy to work and mold
to shape. It will dry stiff and hard. After it dries to shape, you should seal it to keep out
moisture. A wax sealing process is described on the sheath making page
. Or you can use regular waterproofing if you want it to be less stiff. .
I currently stock the following weights:
#OAK4-5; "4-5oz", which is about .07" to .08" thick, 5" wide and 9" long, $6.00
#OAK5-6; "5-6oz", which is about .08" to .09" thick, 5" wide and 9" long. $6.00
#OAK9-10, "9-10oz, which is about .15" to 16" thick, 5" wide and 9" long. $8.00
If you are going to use a lot of leather, you can get it more cheaply at M. Steffan's Sons, Inc. (tel. 716 852-6771) This is probably the oldest leather goods store in the nation, founded in 1851. It's still under the same name and family. Now operated by the fifth generation, it's a great source for leather and leather working supplies. This is where I get the leather I sell for knife sheaths. If you are going to make more than a few sheaths, you would be better off getting large pieces from Linda. Then you can fit the patterns to the leather and reduce waste. A piece of leather that will make four of the rectangular pieces shown above will usually make five or six sheaths.
Plastic inserts for sheaths: I’ve had a number of requests for the plastic inserts
that many of the Scandinavian factories use in their sheaths. If I use an insert myself, I prefer to
carve it out of wood. That way I get just what I want, and it seems more in keeping with the
traditional nature of the Scandinavian design. However for those folks who prefer a ready made
insert, I’ve added the following styles.
Plastic inserts from Karesuando; They are nicely made in two parts, with one half taking the full thickness of the blade so the edge of the knife is not on the join. The mouth is slightly funneled for easy entry, and the outside of the insert is nicely rounded. There are four styles:
#3544; a straight insert for blades up to 15/16" wide (24 mm) and 4 1/8" (105mm) long
$4 Out of Stock
#3555; a straight insert for blades up to 1 3/16" wide (31 mm) and 5 3/4" (150 mm) long, $4
#3556; a curved insert for blades up to 7/8" (22 mm) wide and 4 3/8" (110 mm) long, $4
#3557; a curved insert for blades up to 11/16" (18.5 mm) wide and 3 5/8" (95 mm) long, $4
If the size of the curved insert is a better fit for your blade, and you prefer a straight insert, you can remove the curved portion.
Closed inserts from Lauri; these are made in one piece that completely inclose the blade. The walls are thinner, so they will not add as much bulk as the Karesuando inserts. The opening is slightly flared to insure entry of the blade. The metric width measurement is taken to the outside of the oval shaped opening. The spine of blades is square, so it won’t fit tightly into the oval shape. A blade with a ricasso that is nominally 20 mm wide will not fit an insert that is nominally 20 mm wide. It will work fine if you take a mill file and square up the opening a bit. Otherwise you should select an insert that is a bit wider.
There are four sizes:
#LAURI-INSERT-80x17; for blades up to about 3 1/16" (80mm) long, and 7/8" (17mm) wide. $2.00
#LAURI-INSERT-110x24; for blades up to about 4 3/8" (110 mm) long, and about 15/16" (24 mm) wide. $2.50
#LAURI-INSERT-160x20; for blades up to about 6" long (160mm), and 3/4" (20mm) wide; $2.50
While it seems as if this would be a perfect fit for the Lauri blades nominally 20 mm wide, this not the case. The opening is just 20 mm wide to the outside of the curved opening. The blades have a square spine so they don’t fit tightly into the curve. Also, there may be up to a half mm variation in the actual measurement of the blade due to grinding. The blades with nominal width of 19 mm are better fit for this insert. If you use a mill file to square up the sides of the opening it will take a blade 20 mm nicely.
#LAURI-INSERT-180X35; This one sized for the little leuku blades. It will take blades up to about 6 1/2" long, and 1 3/8" wide. Of course you can cut it down for shorter blades. $2.50.
Open inserts from Lauri; as the name inplies, these do not completely enclose the blade. One side is left open to reduce bulk. Traditionally the open side is toward the back of the sheath to leave room for the stitching seam. They are quite flat, so they would be less bulky than the closed inserts. They are particularly suitable for the smaller knife in a two knife combination sheath.
#LAURI-OPEN-INSERT-100x22; for blades up to about 3 7/8" long ( up to 4" if the point is in line with the spine), and .085" wide. While the opening is nominally 22 mm wide, samples actually measured 21.5 mm., about 13/16". $1.00
#LAURI-OPEN-INSERT-110x23; for blades up to about 4" long ( up to 4 1/4" if the point is in line with the spine), and .091" (about 7/8") wide. $1.00
It’s often better to make the sheath after finishing the knife. That way you can mold it for snug fit. This does two things. You are less likely to lose the knife, and you can mold the sheath to the handle so the knife will not go too deeply into the sheath and cut the bottom. Using pre-made sheaths means you either have to be lucky enough that the handle fits tightly to prevent this, or use a liner to protect the sheath and limit the travel of the knife.
Still, you may be able to save some time with one of these pre-made sheaths.
Sheaths made by Samson Family Leather, here in America. Samson sheaths are made of heavy weight leather, about .120” thick. The seams are both glued and sewn, and made with a welt.
#SAMS-1NA is a good fit for any of the Mora Companion line. So if your knife is similar in size to the Companions, it may work fine. Unlike the others, this one is raw tooling leather, and can be wet formed to your specific knife. See the sheath making page for suggestions on doing this. The sheath is about 7” deep, and will accept blades up to about 1” wide. I’d allow about 3” of depth for the handle, so it should work for knives with a 4” blade. The sheath is sewn with a welt, glued and stitched. The belt loop is securely riveted, and will take belts up to about 2 3/4" in width. $20
#SAMS-1BR is the same sheath drum dyed to a rich brown color. I suspect the drum dying process will make it more difficult to soften the sheath by wetting in order to form it, but haven’t tried it. $23
#SAMS-7BR is a bit wider, and will take a fatter handle. $23
#SAMS-12BR is wider still. It's shown here with the Bushcraft Black. It comes with a solidly attached loop for a fire steel. The loop is a firm fit on the 5/16" diameter Mora firesteel. It would be TIGHT fit for the Light-My-Fire 3/8" diameter fire steel. The firesteel is sold separately. It's not included with the sheath.
#SAMS-DANGLER, The dangler is also available separately. It's on a split ring (like a key ring), so it would be easy to add to any sheath with a reasonably narrow belt loop. $6
#SAMS-3NA is a longer sheath for knives with longer blades up to about 6". Again, this one is raw tooling leather, and can be wet formed to your specific knife. See the sheath making page for suggestions on doing this. The sheath is about 9” deep, and will accept blades up to about 1” wide. I’d allow about 3” of depth for the handle, so it should work for knives with a 6” blade. The sheath is sewn with a welt, glued and stitched. The belt loop is securely riveted, and will take belts up to about 2 3/4" in width. $21
#SAMS-3BR is the same sheath drum dyed to a rich brown color. I suspect the drum dying process will make it more difficult to soften the sheath by wetting in order to form it, but haven’t tried it. $24
#SAMS-6NA is a smaller sheath for knives with longer blades up to 3" or perhaps 3 1/2". Again, this one is raw tooling leather, and can be wet formed to your specific knife. See the sheath making page for suggestions on doing this. The sheath is about 5 1/2” deep, and will accept blades up to about 1” wide. Again, it's sewn with a welt, glued and stitched. The belt loop is securely riveted, and will take belts up to about 2 3/4" in width. $20
#SAMS-6BR is the same sheath drum dyed to a rich brown color. I suspect the drum dying process will make it more difficult to soften the sheath by wetting in order to form it, but haven’t tried it. $23
Sheaths by River Traders. River Trader sheaths are made by Midge Oliver in Oregon. The leather is a bit thinner at about .098”.
#TR-LCS; The Lewis and Clark Trade Sheath will fit the Mora Classic #1or #2. It’s probably a better choice if you are making a more slender traditional puukko without a guard. It’s about 7 ½” overall, and will take more narrow blades about ¾” wide. The riveted belt loop will easily take belts up to 3 1/4" wide. Or it it can be hung on a thong for use as a neck knife. $20
The Medium Trade Sheath will fit the little Mora Classic #2/0 quite nicely. It comes in two styles. This would be a good choice for a small neck knife. The sheath is about 5 ½” deep and will take blades about 5/8” wide.
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